Our Favourite New Releases From Geneva Watch Days
Wild new watches from Ulysse Nardin, Urwerk, Moser and more.
All Eyes on Geneva
In the few short years since Geneva Watch Days was founded, the event has earned its spot as one of the premier watch events in the world - an informal alternative to Watches & Wonders - and with better weather. Last year the show saw almost 14,000 visitors, including 600 media representatives and 250 retailers - this year promises to be even bigger, with 66 brands taking part in a four-day event that promises to showcase the diversity, boldness and ingenuity through an innovative program of events, and, of course - new watch releases. Here are some of our favourites.
The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium
Since its debut in 2001, the Ulysse ANrdin Freak has resolutely maintained its status as one of the most iconic and boundary-pushing watches ever created. No hands. No dial. No crown. It was remarkable. In 2019, the Freak legacy became more accessible than ever before with the introduction of the Freak X, which offered an added crown for the first time, while maintaining the famous carousel time display. The latest version of this model is the Freak X Crystalium, which takes the bold design of the Freak X, clad in black DLC-treated titanium and pairs it with a dial the likes of which we've never seen before, made from Crystalium. Crystalium is a revolutionary material built on a core of ruthenium, which is subjected to several days of vapour deposition to grow natural, fractal-like crystal structures in a controlled way. This remarkable material is then treated with a warm rose gold PVD finish and coated to create a dial that is just as dramatic as the Freak's time display.
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal - Série Atelier
Laurent Ferrier is celebrating 15 years with style, in the form of a platinum-cased take on their Série Atelier, a watch that pays tribute to the famed independent watchmaker's first creation, the Classic Tourbillon. The 41mm case is instantly recognisable thanks to its smooth, pebble-like profile, perfectly paired with the elegant dial, with its Assegai-shaped hands and slender Roman numerals. What's most compelling about this dial is the colour — the grand feu enamel is a rich teal, reminiscent of the deep ocean, and is utterly compelling. Even more enchanting, though, is the movement, the LF619.01, the same large tourbillon movement that Laurent Ferrier debuted in 2010, and which won the brand its first GPHG award. It must be said that the style of finishing has been updated, and the instantly recognisable calibre looks better than ever.
The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Flying Hours
Besides making exceptional watches, Moser is really great at surprising its fans and defying expectations. The Pioneer Flying Hours is a stunning release that marks the boutique brand's first satellite flying hours watch. Combining their sporty Pioneer design, which was released 10 years ago, with the Flying Hours model, which debuted in 2018, the Pioneer Flying Hours is an updated twist on the wandering hours that features an instantaneous hour jump, making reading the time even more intuitive. Offered in a limited edition in 5N red gold with an aventurine dial, or a regular production steel model with a ghostly white fumé dial, these new Moser models offer an entirely new way to tell the time.
The Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion
Trust Urwerk to release one of the most eye-catching and dramatic watches of Geneva Watch Days. The UR-150 Blue Scorpion. A vivid blue version of the watch the brand debuted earlier this year, the UR-150 Scorpion. This modern take on their classic satellite time display offers a 'wider' satellite display and a more streamlined 42.5mm case. Really, though, all eyes are on the vivid blue dial details and that dramatic titanium case execution. The organic concentric lines from the dial continue onto the case and even seamlessly onto the supple rubber strap, making this one exceptionally striking Scorpion.
The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere
Frederique Constant is known for its accessible, classically inspired take on watch design, and their latest pair of Classics Premiere epitomises this approach. Sized at a versatile and on-trend 38.5mm, and offered for the first time on a supple five-link bracelet, these watches are made with everyday wear in mind. But beyond the case and bracelet, it’s the dial that houses all the drama. Offered in Bermuda grey or salmon pink, the stepped dial features a pleasing mix of grained and brushed finishes, as well as applied Breguet-style numerals and ‘pomme’ hands, making for a compelling vintage combination that’s sure to appeal to collectors old and new alike.
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