Where We’re Going, We Don’t Need Hands
Explore how three visionary watchmakers are revolutionizing the way we experience time.
Ulysse Nardin: A Radical Vision
Among these innovators, Ulysse Nardin stands apart for its long and distinguished history. With more than a century of traditional watchmaking behind it, the brand’s catalogue includes many classical designs. Yet one creation has come to define its forward-thinking spirit - the Freak.
Introduced in 2001, the Freak challenged every established convention. It featured no dial, no hands and no crown. Instead, the movement itself was placed on the dial side and used as the time display. The gear train served as the minute indicator, while the mainspring barrel cover indicated the hours. At the time, the concept was nothing short of revolutionary.
Today, while collectors have grown more accustomed to innovation in high horology, the Freak remains a bold statement of technical imagination. With modern evolutions such as the Freak X, this iconic design continues to push boundaries while becoming more approachable for a new generation of collectors.
MB&F: Horology as Mechanical Art
MB&F - short for Max Büsser & Friends - has become one of the most influential independent watch brands of the 21st century. Much of this influence stems from founder Max Büsser’s distinctive design language, inspired by nostalgic visions of the future, from mid-century automotive design to childhood imaginings of robots and spacecraft.
MB&F does not describe its creations as watches, but as horological machines - kinetic works of art that happen to tell the time. While some collections, such as the Legacy Machines, reference traditional watchmaking, others challenge the very notion of what a wristwatch can be.
The HM10 Bulldog is a striking example. Its elongated, sculptural case is topped with twin sapphire domes that replace conventional hands with a digital-style display: hours on the left, minutes on the right. The watch’s name is reflected in a power-reserve indicator shaped like a jaw, a subtle yet expressive detail that adds character to the machine.
Urwerk: Time Display Reimagined
Founded in 1997 by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, Urwerk has, from its earliest days, focused on exploring unconventional ways of displaying time. Central to the brand’s identity is its satellite time display, first introduced in 2003 with the UR-103.
This system uses rotating satellite discs, each marked with three hours, which move across a minute track over a 60-minute cycle. The result is a display that simultaneously indicates hours and minutes in a fluid, almost cinematic manner.
Surrounding this technical innovation are cases inspired by spacecraft, organic forms and futuristic architecture - designs that reflect the founders’ imagination and commitment to experimentation.
A Future Defined by Creativity
Though Ulysse Nardin, MB&F and Urwerk each approach watchmaking from a different perspective, they share a common belief: the future of horology lies in creativity, innovation and the courage to challenge convention.
By moving beyond traditional hands, these watchmakers offer new ways of engaging in time - approaches that are as intellectually compelling as they are visually striking. The result is a vision of watchmaking that continues to inspire curiosity and admiration.
