Designing the Dive Watch
How the adventurous all-rounder might be the textbook definition of function before form.
The Dive Appeal
One of the most popular ‘styles’ of watch is, without the shadow of a doubt, the dive watch. Now, at first, this might be a little surprising - if every dive watch owner were an active diver, the wrecks and reefs of the underwater world would be much more crowded. Of course, the reality is that you don’t need to know your way around a regulator and fins to wear a dive watch. For many, the appeal of a diver is twofold. Firstly, these watches are incredibly robust and capable, made to handle some of the most inhospitable conditions in which watches are worn. For many, there’s a real sense of security in knowing your watch can handle anything you can throw at it. The second, related appeal of these divers is the aspirational call to underwater adventure. For generations, explorers, action heroes and pretty much anyone else who was cool were heavily associated with the visually distinctive dive watch.
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The Diver Formula
The fact that a dive watch is so distinctive is also part of its appeal - no matter the maker, all dive watches share a few core characteristics, and this is no accident. Ever since the 1950s, when the formula for what a modern dive watch looked like was laid down, dive watches have had a few features in common. Most obvious is water-resistance, but equally important are features like an elapsed time indicator (most often in the form of a rotating dive bezel), as well as legibility in total darkness, including on the running seconds-hand.
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Utility Meets Luxury
Having said that, it’s impressive how much diversity watchmakers can achieve while working within these design confines. Ulysse Nardin’s eponymous diver, for example, ticks all the boxes while still offering versions with skeletonised calibres or diamond-studded bezels.
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The ISO Benchmark
In 1982, the working definition of a dive watch was codified in the ISO 6425. The International Organisation for Standardisation has produced these guidelines around what can actually be called a dive watch, with the most recent version requiring at least 100M of water-resistance, legibility criteria as outlined above, as well as a host of other reliability indicators, including resistance to magnetic influence, shock and chemical resistance, along with a strap or bracelet that can withstand 45 pounds of force. While watchmakers don’t have to have the ISO compliance of their dive watches certified, the fact that they exist makes sense, as it can be a dangerous pursuit, and having a tool that is up to the task matters.
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A Modern Classic
Another twist on the familiar formula is the Girard Perregaux Deep Diver, a limited edition inspired by a 1969 model that does away with the familiar external bezel in favour of an internal one, operated by the second crown. It’s as unconventional as it is funky, but every aspect is still up to the task of deep water diving.
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Squaring the Circle
One example of how well the language of a dive watch can be made to fit within a brand’s existing design language is Bell & Ross. Famous for their square aviation watches, a diver might not seem like a natural fit. But legibility, purpose and a round bezel in a square case make for an excellent combination.
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